Unknown Leaks, or Possible Water
Loss from an Unknown Location:
1.) Do you really have a Leak?
a.)
Find out for sure.
For
Pools ONLY:
POOL
TESTING PROCEDURE:
A.) Turn off the water leveler
B.) Put a pencil mark on the tile, EXACTLY where the water
level is.
C.) Normal water loss , for the Valley of the Sun
(Phoenix and surrounding communities) is about an inch during the winter and
2-3 inches during the summer.
D.) If your water loss does not exceed these amounts, you
probably have no leak.
E.) You can also take a bucket, put a heavy brick in it,
place it on the top step and adjust the water level in the bucket to
perfectly match the level in your pool. The evaporation in the bucket
will closely match that of your pool. If they stay at the same levels,
NO LEAK IS PRESENT.
For
Pool & Spa Combinations:
Most
of the time, this is just "perceived" water loss as the elevated
spa's seep water into the pool below. In almost all cases, the water
increase of 200 gallons (1/3 of a spa) is not visible at all in a 15,000
gallon play pool, or a 23,000 gallon diving pool. That's
a 3% change in water level. You aren't going to see this difference
in your pool level, although it is 1/3 or more of your spa (Which is
quite noticeable.)
POOL/SPA
COMBO TESTING PROCEDURE:
Again, Turn
Off the water leveler. Fill up spa to normal operating water levels. Mark the
pool tile with a pencil at EXACTLY where the water height is. Shut
off all equipment and wait for the spa to drain. check the line in the
pool. if it is under water at all, you can bet that this is
where your water went. (Remember, that's about a 3% or less water gain to the
pool.) To check, turn the equipment on and refill the Spa. If the
spa is refilled, and the water level in your pool is exactly where
it was when we started, you have leaky spa check valves, and/or you
need another check valve on the suction line to the spa as well.
NOTE:
If your check valves leak water back into the pool, I recommend calling a
pool professional to determine if it is seeping through the pressure
side of the equipment, and/or the suction side. This can be done by refilling
the spa, shutting off the equipment, then closing off the suction side
valve ONLY, (Returns open) and seeing if it leaks water into the pool, then
refilling the spa, shutting off the equipment, then closing off the
return valve to the spa ONLY, (Suction side open) and seeing if it
leaks. Should you need to replace a valve, I only recommend
"Jandy" spring valves. Should they EVER start to seep in the
future, the home owner can replace the guts in them without needing a
repair man. It is a major plumbing job to remove, or add, a check valve. Call
a service tech for this.
2.) I did the above. I have a
leak. The next step is to see if you lose more water with the equipment on,
or the equipment off.
I.)
Pressurized water loss Test
A.)
Refill Pool
B.) Shut Off Water Leveler
C.)
Repeat the "Pool Testing Procedure in "1a" above
D.)
Leave the Pool Equipment "ON" for 24 hours straight (Non-D.E.)
(4 hours on 2 hours off, 4 hours on, 2 hours off, … for a D.E. Filter)
E.)
Measure your water Loss
II.)
Non Pressurized Water Loss Test
A.)
Refill Pool
B.)
Shut Off Water Leveler
C.)
Repeat the "Pool Testing Procedure in "1a" above
D.)
Leave the Pool Equipment "OFF" for 24 hours straight
E.)
Measure your water Loss
III.)
Diagnosis
A.)
Water Loss greater with equipment "ON" = Most Likely
a Pressure side leak in return lines, floor head line(s) or
other pressurized location.
B.)
Water Loss Less with Equipment "ON" = Most Likely a Suction side
(Between skimmer & Pool) leak (Look for air in system, or air
coming in under lid, as a "Possible" symptom. Note: There are a
number of other possible reasons for air coming in as well. Check those
first. DO NOT JUMP TO CONCLUSIONS!)
C.)
Water Loss the Same, Regardless = Probably a static leak like around the
skimmer edges, where they seal against the Tile in the skimmer mouth,
although there are other possibilities, even in the pool surface
itself. If you can locate these types of leaks, most of the
time, you can seal it with epoxy putty.
So
how do I fix the rest? My suggestion is to call a professional for more
information. Most of these are not something most home owners can
repair. Some require specialized equipment to pinpoint the leak(s), to
prevent digging up major portions of decking and the pool.
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