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1.) Having ANY type of Chlorination System that Requires
Water Flow through the Equipment. This Includes:
a.)
Salt Systems
b.)
In Line or In Deck Chlorinators
c.)
Putting Tabs in the Skimmer Instead of an Appropriate Floating Chlorinator
2.) Having an Improper, Missing, Misadjusted, Broken,
un-adjustable ducky, shark, swan … type Chlorinator, instead of a
Chlorinator with long Side Slits (2" or longer) with a plastic sleeve
to adjust how many of these slits, and how far those slits are opened.
( For more on Chlorinators & Chlorination, Click: HERE )
3.) Not Enough Chlorine Being Added
a.) Not Shocking
the pool after every pool party, or once a month during swim season
(Minimum)
b.) Not Putting
the Proper Number of Tabs in the Chlorinator, i.e. enough to maintain a 3.0
free available chlorine reading for 7 straight days.
c.) Not
adding Chlorine when it is needed
4.) Not adjusting the chlorinator so that half of a new
tab, by weight, is dissolved in a 7 day period. Close the chlorinator if
more than half is dissolved, and open it if less is dissolved in 7
days.
5.) Stabilizer reading is not at 100 PPM (Your area may
be different. Given the Phoenix heat, I can't keep a Chlorine reading from
one week to the next with less than a 70 PPM, and even then it takes 30-50%
more Chlorine to maintain that level than it does at 100 PPM. Sorry, I am
not about to give manufacturers 30% or more of my money when, after over 25
years, I have NEVER had one problem by keeping it at 100 PPM. How they
arrived at those levels, other than it brings them in more money on weekly
chlorine sales, I have no idea. I use what works.
Note: Stabilizer should only need to be added once,
right after refilling your pool. If you are finding that your reading
continues to drop after bringing it up to proper levels, you probably have
a pool leak.
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